Notes:
Sermon 88: On Dress
This sermon is a sequel to ‘The Danger of Riches’ in the sense that it focuses on a particular extravagance which at least some affluent Methodists had fallen into: wearing ‘gay and costly apparel’, and even defending such a practice as licit for Christians. Twenty-six years before (1760), he had added an Advice to the People called Methodists with regard to Dress to the sermons in SOSO, IV.151-68 (see Bibliog, No. 131.iii). None of the numerous editions of this little essay lists an author, but it reads very much like Wesley, and Thomas Jackson included it as Wesley’s in his edition of the Works (1830), XI.466-77. The idea of frugality and plainness in dress was both a Quaker and Puritan commonplace; Wesley had taken up Robert Barclay and Richard Baxter and made their ideas on dress his own.
Now, in 1786, he returns to the same topic with very few alterations in substance and style. ‘On Dress’ was published in the March and April instalments of the Arminian Magazine (1787), X.117-22, 172-80, without a title but numbered ‘Sermon XXXVIII’. There is a postscript: ‘North-Green, Dec. 30, 1786’. Wesley’s diary indicates that he visited North Green occasionally between 1786 and 1790. Thomas Rankin, who had retired in 1783, lived there, and Wesley moved his printing operation from the Foundery to North Green around 1788.
A title was added in the year following when the sermon was published in SOSO, VII.167-89. A further qualifying comment on this topic was published in 1788, entitled ‘Thoughts upon Dress’; this was a postscript to an extract from The Refined Courtier which Wesley had published in the Arminian Magazine (1788), XI.196-97.
03:248 On Dress1 Peter 3:3-4
Whose adorning, let it not be that outward adorning of…wearing of gold, or of putting on of apparel. But let it be the hidden man of the heart, in that which is not corruptible, even the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit, which is in the sight of God of great price.
11. St. Paul exhorts all those who desire to ‘be transformed by the renewal of their minds’, and to ‘prove what is that good, and acceptable, and perfect will of God’, not to be ‘conformed to this world’.
Cf. Rom. 12:2.
1 Cor. 3:19.
I.e., ‘exact’ as in Johnson, Dictionary, loc. cit.
22. Some of these, particularly that in the text, descend even to the apparel of
Christians. And both this text and the parallel one of St. Paul are as express as
possible. St. Paul’s words are: ‘I will that women adorn themselves in modest
apparel; not…with gold, or pearls, or costly array; but (which becometh women
professing godliness) with good works.’
[Cf.] 1 Tim. 2:8-10[ver.
9-10].
33. But is it not strange, say some, that the all-wise Spirit of God should condescend to take notice of such trifles as these? To take notice of such insignificant trifles? Things of so little moment? Or rather of none at all? For what does it signify, provided we take care of the soul, what the body is covered with? Whether in silk or sackcloth? What harm can there be in the wearing of gold, or silver, or precious stones? Or any other of those beautiful things with which God has so amply provided us? May we not apply to 03:249this what St. Paul has observed on another occasion, that ‘every creature of God is good, and nothing to be rejected’?
1 Tim. 4:4 (Notes); cf. ‘Thoughts Upon Dress’ for a reply to complaints about a rule he had quoted approvingly in AM (1788), XI.196-97: ‘Let everyone, when he appears in public, be decently clothed according to his age and the custom of the place where he lives.’
44. It is certain that many who sincerely fear God have cordially embraced this opinion. And their practice is suitable thereto: they make no scruple of conformity to the world by putting on, as often as occasion offers, either gold, or pearls, or costly apparel. And indeed they are not well-pleased with those that think it their duty to reject them; the using of which they apprehend to be one branch of Christian liberty. Yea, some have gone considerably farther; even so far as to make it a point to bring those who had refrained from them for some time to make use of them again, assuring them that it was mere superstition to think there was any harm in them. Nay, farther still, a very respectable person has said in express terms, ‘I do not desire that any who “dress plain” should be in our society.’
Apparently this is not a quotation from a printed source, but a comment from some unknown Methodist.
55. But before we enter on the subject, let it be observed that slovenliness is no part of religion; that neither this nor any text of Scripture condemns neatness of apparel; certainly this is a duty, not a sin. ‘Cleanliness is indeed next to godliness.’
Cf. ‘The Song of Songs’ in the Midrash Rabbah, I.1:9, where Rabbi Phinehas ben-Yair affirms a long sorites that begins with zeal (‘zeal leads to cleanliness’) and continues on to ‘purity’ or ‘godliness’. In Bartlett, Familiar Quotations, the adage is credited to Wesley, as derived from ‘the Hebrew fathers’. But Bartlett quotes Rabbi A. S. Bettelheim as citing Phinehas ben-Yair as having summarized ‘the doctrines of religion as carefulness, …abstemiousness next to cleanliness, cleanliness next to godliness’. See also No. 98, ‘On Visiting the Sick’, II.6, where the saying is quoted as from ‘a pious man’. Thus, it had passed into its proverbial form before Wesley. See his advice to his assistants in Minutes, June 25, 1744, etc., Q. 41(6), and his Advice to the People called Methodists with Regard to Dress, II.2 (Bibliog, No. 131.iii), where he says, ‘Cleanliness is one great branch of frugality.’
Cf. George Herbert, The Temple, ‘The Church Porch’, ll. 371-72:
Cf. John Wesley, A Collection of Moral and Sacred Poems (1744), I.30. See also, Wesley’s letter to Richard Steel, Apr. 24, 1769.
03:250And surely everyone should attend to this if he would not have the good that is in him evil spoken of.
See Rom. 14:16.
66. Another mistake with regard to apparel has been common in the religious world. It has been supposed by some that there ought to be no difference at all in the apparel of Christians. But neither these texts nor any other in the Book of God teach any such thing, or direct that the dress of the master or mistress should be nothing different from that of their servants. There may undoubtedly be a moderate difference of apparel between persons of different stations. And where the eye is single this will easily be adjusted by the rules of Christian prudence.
77. Yea, it may be doubted whether any part of Scripture forbids (at least I
know not any) those in any nation that are invested with supreme authority to be
arrayed in gold and costly apparel; or to adorn their immediate attendants, or
magistrates, or officers with the same. It is not improbable that our blessed Lord
intended to give countenance to this custom when he said, without the least mark of
censure or disapprobation, ‘Behold, those that wear gorgeous (splendid) apparel are
in kings’ courts.’
Luke 7:25.
88. What is then the meaning of these Scriptures? What is it which they forbid? They manifestly forbid ordinary Christians, those in the lower or middle ranks of life, to be adorned with gold, or pearls, or costly apparel. But why? What harm is there therein? This deserves our serious consideration. But it is highly expedient, or rather absolutely necessary for all who would consider it to any purpose, as far as is possible to divest themselves of all prejudice, and to stand open to conviction. Is it not necessary likewise in the highest degree that they should earnestly beseech the Father of lights that ‘by his holy inspiration they may think the things that are right, and by his merciful guidance perform the same’?
Cf. BCP, Collect for Rogation Sunday (Fifth Sunday after Easter): ‘O Lord, from whom all good things do come; Grant to us thy humble servants, that by thy holy inspiration we may think those things that be good, and by thy merciful guiding may perform the same, through our Lord Jesus Christ. Amen.’
Cf. Acts. 26:28; and see No. 4, Scriptural Christianity, IV.2 and n.
99. The question is, What harm does it do to adorn ourselves with gold, or pearls, or costly array? Suppose you can afford it? That is, suppose it does not hurt or impoverish your family? The first harm it does is, it engenders pride,
Cf. No. 14, The Repentance of Believers, I.3 and n.
Horace, Epistles, I.xviii.31-32: ‘Eutrapelus, if he wished to injure someone, would present him with fancy and expensive clothes.’
He could not then but imagine himself to be as much better as he was finer than his neighbour. And how many thousands, not only lords and gentlemen in England, but honest tradesmen, argue the same way—inferring the superior value of their persons from the value of their clothes!
1010. ‘But may not one man be as proud, though clad in sackcloth, as another is, though clad in cloth of gold?’ As this argument meets us at every turn, and is supposed to be unanswerable, it will be worth while to answer it once for all, and to show the utter emptiness of it. ‘May not then one clad in sackcloth’, you ask, ‘be as proud as he that is clad in cloth of gold?’ I answer, Certainly he may: I suppose no one doubts of it. And what inference can you draw from this? Take a parallel case. One man that drinks a cup of wholesome wine
Cf. Wesley’s Preface to his Extract From Dr. Cadogan’s Dissertation on Gout (1774), and his comment in JWJ, Sept. 9, 1771—both disavowing Dr. Cadogan’s condemnation of the use of wine, ‘toto genere’. See also his inquiry to his wife, Apr. 24, 1757: ‘…Sister Hacket was to have a cag [small keg] of the elder wine. Has she had it?’
1 Pet. 5:5.
1111. Secondly, the wearing gay or costly apparel naturally tends to breed and to increase vanity. By vanity I here mean the love and desire of being admired and praised. Every one of you that is fond of dress has a witness of this in your own bosom. Whether you will confess it before man or no, you are convinced of this before God. You know in your hearts, it is with a view to be admired that you thus adorn yourselves, and that you would not be at the pains were none to see you but God and his holy angels. Now the more you indulge this foolish desire, the more it grows upon you. You have vanity enough by nature, but by thus indulging it you increase it a hundredfold. O stop! Aim at pleasing God done, and all these ornaments will drop off.
1212. Thirdly, the wearing of gay and costly apparel naturally tends to beget anger, and every turbulent and uneasy passion. And it is on this very account that the Apostle places this ‘outward adorning’ in direct opposition to ‘the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit’. How remarkably does he add, ‘which is in the sight of God of great price’:
John Wesley, ‘A Morning Dedication of Ourselves to Christ’, st. 6, last two lines, translated from Joachim Lange, in John and Charles Wesley, Hymns and Sacred Poems (1739), p. 180 (Poet. Wks., I.160).
None can easily conceive, unless himself were to make the sad experiment, the contrariety there is between that ‘outward adorning’ and this ‘inward quietness of spirit’. You never can thoroughly enjoy this while you are fond of the other. It is only while you sit loose
For this vernacular phrase, see No. 44, Original Sin, II.9 and n.
1313. Fourthly, gay and costly apparel directly tends to create and 03:253inflame lust. I was in doubt whether to name this brutal appetite. Or, in order to spare delicate ears, to express it by some gentle circumlocution. (Like the Dean who some years ago told his audience at Whitehall, ‘If you do not repent, you will go to a place which I have too much manners to name before this good company.’)
This story was a well-known eighteenth-century anecdote. Cf. Richard Steele, The Guardian, No. 17 (Mar. 31, 1713), who remembers having heard it ‘about thirty years ago’; Pope, Moral Essays (1731), IV.49-50 and n. (‘…soft Dean…who never mentions Hell to ears polite’); and Richard Graves, Spiritual Quixote, I.102. John Butt, in his 1963 edn. of Pope (p. 593), identifies ‘the soft dean’ as Knightly Chetwood but this seems conjectural. Basil Williams, The Whig Supremacy, p. 92, tells the story as of White Kennett (afterwards Bishop of Peterborough), but Kennett’s dates do not jibe with Steele’s. There is a variation of this anecdote in Wesley’s letter to ‘John Smith’ (July 10, 1747): ‘…an eminent man, who preaching at St. James’s said, “If you do not repent, you will go to a place which I shall not name before this audience”’; cf. also CWJ, Sept. 24, 1738. See also AM, II.46, where another version is printed (in an unidentified poem which quotes Pope’s lines).
Abraham Cowley, ‘The Waiting-Maid’, ver. 4, in The Mistress.
That is (to express the matter in plain terms, without any colouring), ‘You poison the beholder with far more of this base appetite than otherwise he would feel.’ Did you not know this would be the natural consequence of your elegant adorning? To push the question home, did you not desire, did you not design it should? And yet all the time, how did you
Cf. Nicholas Rowe, The Fair Penitent (1703), Act II, sc. 1:
Cf. Rowe’s Works (1766), I.232.
Meanwhile you do not yourself escape the snare which you spread for others. The dart recoils, and you are infected with the 03:254same poison with which you infected them. You kindle a flame which at the same time consumes both yourself and your admirers. And it is well if it does not plunge both you and them into the flames of hell.
1414. Fifthly, the wearing costly array is directly opposite to the being ‘adorned with good works’. Nothing can be more evident than this; for the more you lay out on your own apparel, the less you have left to clothe the naked, to feed the hungry, to lodge the strangers, to relieve those that are sick and in prison, and to lessen the numberless afflictions to which we are exposed in this vale of tears. And here is no room for the evasion used before, ‘I may be as humble in cloth of gold as in sackcloth.’ If you could be as humble when you choose costly as when you choose plain apparel (which I flatly deny), yet you could not be as beneficent, as plenteous in good works. Every shilling which you save from your own apparel you may expend in clothing the naked, and relieving the various necessities of the poor, whom ye ‘have always with you’.
Cf. Mark 14:7.
Cf. No. 50, ‘The Use of Money’, II.3.
1 Cor. 3:8.
1515. I pray consider this well. Perhaps you have not seen it in this light before. When you are laying out that money in costly apparel which you could have otherwise spared for the poor, you thereby deprive them of what God, the Proprietor of all, had lodged in your hands for their use. If so, what you put upon yourself you are, in effect, tearing from the back of the naked; as the costly and delicate food which you eat you are snatching from the mouth of the hungry. For mercy, for pity, for Christ’s sake, for the honour of his gospel, stay your hand. Do not throw this money away. Do not lay out on nothing, yea, worse than nothing, what may clothe your poor, naked, shivering fellow-creature!
1603:25516. Many years ago, when I was at Oxford, in a cold winter’s day, a young maid (one of those we kept at school) called upon me. I said: ‘You seem half starved. Have you nothing to cover you but that thin linen gown?’ She said, ‘Sir, this is all I have!’ I put my hand in my pocket; but found I had scarce any money left, having just paid away what I had. It immediately struck me, will not thy Master say, ‘“Well done, good and faithful steward!”
Matt. 25:23.
The Oxford diaries suggest a possible identification here with Katherine Jervas’s daughter, Sarah; cf. Feb. 1, 1734. Earlier entries in Oct. and Dec. 1731, specify Wesley’s interest in the Jervas family and a gift of eight shillings ‘for Sarah [J.’s] gown and petticoat’. As for ‘adorning his walls’, there are five different entries for pictures and framing, amounting to £1.10s. between Apr. 1732 and July 1733.
Wesley recalls: ‘I used to be fond of pictures containing Scripture pieces. At that time, I was one day walking the streets of London, when I met an old servant. I was distressed to see her in such poor attire. Knowing I had put half a guinea in my pocket, I put my hand in, intending to give it to her, that she might buy a new gown, but it was gone. Then I recollected that I had called at the stationers and laid it out in pictures. How much more good should I have done if I had given it to that needy woman;’ cf. John B. Dyson, The History of Wesleyan Methodism in the Congleton Circuit (London, Leeds, 1856), p. 105; also Benjamin Smith, Methodism in Macclesfield (London, 1875), p. 205. Thus, we have two stories quite similar, of Wesley’s recollections of his own dilemmas in Christian stewardship. See also No. 122, ‘Causes of the Inefficacy of Christianity’, §9, where he climaxes his appeal to Christian generosity with, ‘See that poor member of Christ’s [Body] pinched with hunger, shivering with cold, half-naked!’
1717. It is true, great allowance is to be made for those who have never been warned of these things, and perhaps do not know that there is a word in the Bible which forbids costly apparel. But what is that to you? You have been warned over and over;
Cf. No. 87, ‘The Danger of Riches’, II.20.
Rom. 14:10.
Heb. 11:26.
Cf. No. 87, ‘The Danger of Riches’, II.8 and n.
Acts 10:42; many of Wesley’s readers would have associated this phrase with their recital of it in The Apostles’ Creed.
1818. How then can it be that after so many warnings you persist in the same folly? Is it not hence? There are still among you some that neither profit themselves by all they hear, nor are willing that others should; and these, if any of you are almost persuaded to dress as Christians, reason, and rally, and laugh you out of it. O ye pretty triflers, I entreat you not to do the devil’s work any longer! Whatever ye do yourselves, do not harden the hearts of others. And you that are of a better mind, avoid these tempters with all possible care. And if you come where any of them are, either beg them to be silent on the head, or quit the room.
1919. Sixthly, the putting on of costly apparel is directly opposite to what the Apostle terms ‘the hidden man of the heart’; that is, to the whole ‘image of God’
Gen. 1:27; 9:6; 2 Cor. 4:4.
Cf. Phil. 2:5.
See 1 John 1:3.
1 Tim. 6:9 (Notes).
2020. Why then does not everyone that either loves or fears God flee from it as from the face of a serpent?
See Rev. 12:14.
2121. You answer, ‘Why, universal custom
Cf. No. 25, ‘Sermon on the Mount, V’, IV.3 and n.
Cf. No. 35, ‘The Law Established through Faith, I’, I.12 and n.
Wesley is here identifying the principal preaching places of London Methodists (those in connexion with the Countess of Huntingdon and his own). Northampton Chapel had once been a place of entertainment called The Pantheon in Spa Fields, Clerkenwell. It had been renovated by the Revd. John Ryland of Northampton and dedicated as a chapel in 1777. In 1779 it came under the control of Lady Huntingdon and was renamed ‘Spa Fields Chapel’ (and was the place of the first public ordinations in her ‘Connexion’ in 1783). Wesley remembers it here under its older name.
The Tabernacle, first built in 1741, was Whitefield’s stronghold in Moorfields within sight (and sound) of Wesley’s Foundery. In 1753 it was rebuilt as a brick chapel and continued in use into the twentieth century.
The Chapel on Tottenham Court Road (opened in 1756) was Whitefield’s other London centre built by Lady Huntingdon and her friends; in its time it was one of the largest auditoriums of its kind in Britain. A rebuilt church and an active congregation are still there.
The Chapel in West Street (one of the streets opening into Seven Dials) had been the church for the London Huguenots whose lease Wesley acquired in 1743. Thereafter it served Wesley as a consecrated church in west-central London where he and Charles could serve Holy Communion as well as preach.
‘The New Chapel’ on City Road was Wesley’s replacement for the Foundery; it was built in 1778. See No. 112, On Laying the Foundation of the New Chapel.
Adam Smith, Wealth of Nations, Bk. I, ch. V, defines riches: ‘Every man is rich or poor according to the degree in which he can afford to enjoy the necessaries, conveniences and amusements of human life.’ Cf. below, §27, as well as Nos. 122, ‘Causes of the Inefficacy of Christianity’, §9; and 131, ‘The Danger of Increasing Riches’, II.12.
2222. This is a melancholy truth. I am ashamed of it; but I know not how to help it. I call heaven and earth to witness this day that it is not my fault. The trumpet has not ‘given an uncertain sound’
Cf. 1 Cor. 14:8.
For Wesley’s frequent deliverance of his own soul, cf. No. 36, ‘The Law Established through Faith, II’, I.5 and n.
2323. I warn you once more, in the name, and in the presence of God, that the number of those that rebel against God is no excuse for their rebellion. He hath expressly told us, ‘Thou shalt not follow the multitude to do evil.’
Cf. Exod. 23:2.
Cf. Samuel Wesley, Jun., ‘To the Memory of the Right Reverend Francis Gastrell’, ll. 225-26, Poems (1736), p. 135, where the couplet begins, ‘Nor fear’d’. See also John Wesley, A Collection of Moral and Sacred Poems (1744), IIΙ.85. Bishop Gastrell (1662-1725) was much admired for his scrupulous conscience and for his pastoral concerns. Richard Hooper (in DNB) cites Thomas Hearne’s report that in his last illness Gastrell had ‘refused to take a bottle of port wine which might have saved him, saying that he would rather die than drink’. See also No. 25, ‘Sermon on the Mount, V’, IV. 12, where Wesley has used a line similar to the second one here; for the tag Athanasius contra mundum, cf. No. 55, On the Trinity, §5 and n.
Who of you desire to share in that glorious character? To stand adverse against a world? If millions condemn you, it will be enough that you are acquitted by God and your own conscience.
2424. ‘Nay, I think’, say some, ‘I could bear the contempt or reproach of all the world beside. I regard none but my own relations, those especially that are of my own household. My father, my mother, my brothers and sisters (and perhaps one that 03:259is nearer than them all) are teasing me continually.’ This is a trial indeed, such as very few can judge of but those that bear it. ‘I have not strength to bear it.’ No, not of your own; certainly you have not. But ‘there is strength laid up for you on one that is mighty’!
Cf. Ps. 89:19.
See 2 Cor. 12:9.
Cf. Matt. 10:37.
2525. But are there not some among you that did once renounce this conformity to the world, and dress in every point neat and plain, suitable to your profession? Why then did you not persevere therein? Why did you turn back from the good way? Did you contract an acquaintance, perhaps a friendship, with some that were still fond of dress? It is no wonder then that you was sooner or later moved,
“To measure back your steps to earth again.Cf. Thomas Parnell, ‘The Hermit’, l. 227. See No. 80, ‘On Friendship with the World’, §28 and n.
No less was to be expected than that one sin would lead you on to another. It was one sin to contract a friendship with any that knew not God; for ‘know ye not that friendship with the world is enmity with God?’
Cf. Jas. 4:4.
2626. I conjure you all who have any regard for me, show me before I go hence that I have not laboured, even in this respect, in vain for near half a century. Let me see, before I die, a Methodist 03:260congregation full as plain dressed as a Quaker congregation.
For other admiring references to Quaker modesty, cf. Nos. 97, ‘On Obedience to Pastors’, III.10; and 122, ‘Causes of the Inefficacy of Christianity’, §12. See also Wesley’s Advice to the People called Methodists with Regard to Dress, I.3-II.4; and his letters to Miss March, Sept. 15, 1770, and to Kitty Warren, Aug. 26, 1779.
Cf. OED, where this is the sole instance cited for this phrase.
Cf. Wesley’s letter to Richard Steel, Apr. 24, 1769: ‘Whatever clothes you wear, let them be whole…. Let none ever see a ragged Methodist.’
2727. Let not any of you who are rich in this world endeavour to excuse yourselves from this by talking nonsense. It is stark, staring nonsense to say, ‘Oh, I can afford this or that.’ If you have regard to common sense, let that silly word never come out of your mouth. No man living can ‘afford’ to waste any part of what God has committed to his trust. None can ‘afford’ to throw any part of that food and raiment into the sea which was lodged with him on purpose to feed the hungry and clothe the naked. And it is far worse than simple waste to spend any part of it in gay or costly apparel. For this is no less than to turn wholesome food into deadly poison. It is giving so much money to poison both yourself and others, as far as your example spreads, with pride, vanity, anger, lust, love of the world, and a thousand ‘foolish and hurtful desires’, which tend to ‘pierce’ them ‘through with many sorrows’.
Cf. 1 Tim. 6:9-10 (Notes).
See Ps. 74:23 (BCP). Is there an echo here of the historic denunciation of Martin Luther in Pope Leo X’s Exsurge Domine (1520), the first papal encyclical against the great reformer?
See Ps. 55:23 (AV).
2828. I beseech you, every man that is here present before God, every woman, young or old, married or single, yea, every child that knows good from evil, take this to yourself. Each of you, for 03:261one, take the Apostle’s advice: at least, hinder not others from taking it. I beseech you, O ye parents, do not hinder your children from following their own convictions, even though you might think they would ‘look prettier’ if they were adorned with such gewgaws as other children wear. I beseech you, O ye husbands, do not hinder your wives: you, O ye wives, do not hinder your husbands, either by word or deed, from acting just as they are persuaded in their own minds. Above all, I conjure you, ye half Methodists, you that trim between us and the world, you that frequently, perhaps constantly, hear our preaching, but are in no farther connexion with us; yea, and all you that were once in full connexion with us but are not so now: whatever ye do yourselves, do not say one word to hinder others from recovering and practising the advice which has been now given! Yet a little while, and we shall not need these poor coverings; for this corruptible body shall put on incorruption. Yet a few days hence, and this mortal body shall put on immortality.
Cf. 1 Cor. 15:54.
Eph. 4:22, 24.
Cf. Col. 3:12.
Gal 3:27; cf. Rom. 13:14.
Cf. Col. 3:4.
North-Green, Dec. 30, 1786
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Entry Title: Sermon 88: On Dress